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Pond Baby
A micro RC Seaplane
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by Dave Robelen
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PAGE TWO (OF TWO)

CONSTRUCTION

pond_baby_takeoff.jpg - 12619 BytesIn micro RC models, wood selection is vital to control weight. I used mostly 1/16- and 1/32-inch balsa sheet; one sheet of 1/16-inch, 3x36-inch balsa should weigh no more than 15 grams (½ ounce), and the 1/32-inch stock should weigh half of that. The same applies to nose blocks: the lighter the better. I strip my stock from the lighter sheet wood, and I use Goldberg medium CA and Hobby Lobby’s Oracover Light for the wing. You’ll also need 1/64-inch plywood and 0.015-inch-diameter music wire.

• Wing. Lay the plan flat and cover it with wax paper. The trailing edge (TE) must be shimmed up to match the airfoil angle. Clamp the edges into place and then glue in the ribs, tilting the two center ones for the dihedral. Add the top spars and center sheeting; when the glue is dry, flip the assembly over and glue in the bottom spar. Use a sanding block to trim the angle at the wing center, then glue the panels together. Glue on the tip blocks and sand the whole works.

Only the wing is to be covered with film, and it has undercamber, so covering techniques are different. Use a trim-seal iron that heats only a small area. Start with the bottom surface, and tack the covering to the spar at the ends and then at a few spots in the middle; tack the film to the rib bottoms and then the edges. Seal all of these seams tightly before you shrink the film. Work your way around the wing, and finish by checking for warping. If necessary, use heat to straighten the wing and then set it aside.

pond_baby_tail.jpg - 9450 Bytes• Tail. The tail surfaces are 1/16-inch sheet with rounded edges. My hinges are 0.005-inch-thick drafting Mylar sliced into 3/16-inch widths. Slit the tail as necessary, and slide the hinges into place. When the gaps are as narrow as they can be without hindering movement, put a drop of CA on each hinge, and check the bond by gently tugging on the controls. Make horns out of thin plywood, and glue them into place where shown. Set the tail parts aside.

• Hull. Glue the 1/16-inch strips around the edges of each side (one left, one right). Join the sides at the wing area first, using the bulkheads for that area. Keeping the pieces square, work over the top view to install the front and rear bulkheads and then the rest of the cross-pieces. Add the keel strips, and sand the bottom smooth before you install the 1/32-inch planking. Keep the seams tight, and your hull probably won’t leak! Before you add the tail boom, plank the back of the hull with 1/32-inch sheet. I used patches of masking tape on the top outside of the tail boom to hold the sides together while I put a thin bead of glue along the inside of this seam and then added the bulkheads and bottom sheet. Fasten the tail boom to the hull and move back to the nose. Trim the two front blocks to the outside shape and then rout them out to about an 1/8-inch wall thickness. (Use a Dremel tool and an X-Acto gouge.) When you’re satisfied with their positions, glue the blocks into place and blend with a sanding block. The 1/8-inch chine strips are important; they should match the shape shown to throw the spray clear of the prop.

Install round toothpicks as wing dowels, and temporarily strap the wing into place. Using the wing as a reference, install the tail assembly on the boom, keeping the parts true. Make the motor-pylon sandwich of balsa and plywood, but do not glue it into place yet; make two tip floats of soft balsa, and fasten them to their struts.

Sand the wooden parts again, and vacuum away the dust. Before I painted my Pond Baby, I put a layer of tissue on the bottom of the hull from the step forward. I bonded this on with thin white glue, and when that had dried, I coated the wooden parts with sealant (hardware-store lacquer sanding sealant at full strength). When it’s dry, smooth it with 320-grit sandpaper. I sprayed on auto-parts-store colored paints (touch-up lacquer) thinly—just enough for adequate color. Finally, I sprayed all the wood with a couple of coats of Krylon Crystal Clear lacquer.

ASSEMBLY
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A piece of aluminum can was used to
create a planing surface on the tip of
the float.

Glue the motor pylon to the wing, and then glue the motor assembly into place with medium CA used sparingly. The motor leads have to be extended to reach through the wing, and there’s a connector in the cabin. I use the tiny "Unisex" connectors from Cloud 9 Micro RC, which is also an excellent source of tiny slide switches and 50mAh batteries. For best results, I use a 7-cell pack of 50mAh Ni-Cds; feel free to experiment with new products. Use light servos (I’ve used WES-Technik and lightened HS-50s with equally good results) and mount them on the cabin walls toward the rear with double-sided foam tape. Make a light control connection between the servos and the surface with lengths of 0.015-inch music wire; I glued in several short pieces of thin plastic tubing to support this. Choose the lightest receiver and speed control you can afford (mine came from Sky Hooks & Rigging), and install them in the forward part of the cabin. Lay the battery on the bottom where it will give the correct CG.

Slip the propeller onto the shaft, and secure it with hard-plastic tubing pressed onto the shaft. Charge the battery and range-check your system—power on and off. Finally, coat the painted areas with paste wax; we want the forward bottom to be slick, and the rest should shed water readily.

FLIGHT TIME

At first, fly in a clear area over grass—minus the tip floats. Bring the motor to about half power and push Pond Baby smoothly into the breeze. And remember that these are serious test flights—no time for fun! Be objective: all trimmed for smooth flight? Good climb on full power? Plenty of control at all speeds? How about that flat landing approach? Great! I can cruise around for 6 minutes—just loafing—or less than that if I try maneuvers.

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For such a small model, Pond Baby sits well in the water and taxis smoothly. For water operation, it needs a "buggy whip" antenna.

Water time! We did the bathtub thing, so skip right to the swimming pool or whatever. Reinstall the tip floats and put a narrow strip of foam tape on the bottom of the wing along each cabin side. Check carefully for obstructions—trees, power lines, etc. You’ll need a boat or a casting rod in case you need to retrieve Pond Baby.

Switch on and set Pond Baby in the water. Throttle up just a little, and before a full-speed run, get a feel for the low-speed steering. Line up parallel to the shore and let it rip! When Pond Baby lifts up and is planing on the forward bottom, just a touch of up-elevator will give the neatest liftoff! Cruise around but save some battery power to taxi back after landing. Remember the flat skimming approach? Great! When Pond Baby is on the water and taxiing, enjoy knowing that electric power will not quit and leave Pond Baby stranded offshore. Smile at the spectators and prepare to recharge and go again.

Enjoy; and let me know if I can help in any way: Rte. 4, Box 369, Farmville, VA 23901; (804) 392-3451.plane_article_end.gif - 160 Bytes


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